THE SHIMANO SPD PEDAL SERVICE EVERYBODY NEEDS TO KNOW ABOUT

Jan 25, 2024

Shimano's SPD system is arguably the holy grail when it comes to durability and reliability. It is the most popular clipless pedal system, and for good reason. SPD pedals are the benchmark for ease of use, consistent engagement and release, and super-adjustable cleat tension. In fact, we’ve seen pros use a pair of XTR pedals with the logo scratched off instead of what their sponsors told them to run. While Shimano pedals are incredibly durable and can last literally decades without fail, their internal bearings must be adjusted to keep them running smoothly season after season. We’ll show you how.

• 8mm Allen wrench to hold pedal axle

• 15mm wrench to remove body

• 7mm and 8mm wrenches for bearing adjustment

• Grease and grease brush

• Clean rag

To adjust the axle bearing, you must remove the pedal body first. Shimano takes the guesswork out of which way to loosen this nut that holds it on.

While holding the pedal body in your hand, use the 15mm wrench to loosen the pedal-body nut. If your pedals have a knurled collar instead of wrench flats here, you need Shimano's special plastic TL-PD40 tool (shown in the inset photo), which can be purchased for about $5–$10.

Unscrew the pedal body from the axle by hand. There are many threads here to keep the pedal from suddenly falling off if it were to somehow come loose when riding.

The pedal axle and bearing should drop out easily once this nut is fully unscrewed.

Clean the axle and bearings using the clean rag. The inside of the bearing may retain some of the old grease.

Use the clean rag to clean the inside of the pedal body as much as possible. Solvents can help if your pedals are really a greasy mess.

The goal is to remove as much of the contaminated grease and grit as possible with the clean rag. If you must use solvents on this step, be sure they are fully removed and dry before you proceed to reassembly.

Now, we’ll adjust the bearing tension. There are two nuts on the axle for this. The inner one controls the tension on the bearing, and the outer one keeps it locked in place. First, we will use the smaller, 7mm wrench to loosen the outer nut.

Now, with the outer nut loose, the inner 8mm nut should move easily. It should be adjusted just so it puts a small amount of pressure on the balls, but not so much it binds.

Once you find the correct tension on the inner nut, you must tighten the outer one to keep it in place. This adjustment functions in the same way a hub cone and ball bearing does. Once you have taken the play out, you tighten it together to keep it in place.

You should now see and feel the roller bearings rotating smoothly on the axle with no side-to-side play. If yours still feels crunchy or loose, go back to step nine and try again. This adjustment may take a few attempts to get it just right.

With your bearings clean and adjusted, it's time to reassemble. Coat the axle in a thin layer of grease, and use the brush to push some of it into the bearing

Put a small dab of grease inside the pedal body. If you overdo the grease here, it will push back out of the pedal and make a mess on your workbench. This will get pushed down to lubricate the rest of the axle.

Insert the freshly greased axle and thread the pedal-body nut back in place. It should screw all the way in and bottom out on the pedal body.

Use the 15mm wrench (or TL-PD40) to tighten the pedal-body nut. With this torqued, the pedal should spin freely with some resistance from the fresh grease but feel smooth with no side-to-side play. Be sure to check this pedal-body nut from time to time, as they can come loose from normal riding.